Switzerland: Chateau de Gruyeres

Old Gruyere from Our Hotel

We threw our bags on the beds, and decided that we would spend the rest of the day exploring the old city. We joined the other tourist in the street and headed uphill towards the Chateau gate.

Just inside the inner wall we found several very creepy modern sculptures. They looked like they were from the sci-fi movie Alien. Sure enough, right there, inside a 11th century castle, was a museum dedicated to the Swiss artist, H.R. Gieger, who was the artistic inspiration for the film. I guess where the tourists are, that's where the museums go, historical logic or no. We declined to pay the admission, but did get to peek into a bar across the street who's interior was fully "alienized", ribbed ceiling, vertebral bar chairs, and all. Wouldn't want to get too soused in a setting like that - you'd wig out.

The chateau was the home of the Gruyeres from the 11th to the 16th century. The last Gruyere went bankrupt, and his creditors, the neighboring fiefdoms, split the properties. The representatives of the Fribourgs then lived in the castle for 200 years, when it was sold to a wealth family as a summer residence. They and their artist friends restored it. In 1938 it was sold back to Fribourg and made into a tourist attraction. It is now run and preserved by a foundation.

Chateau Gruyere Kitchen Fireplace

Because of its long history and extensive remodeling in the mid 1800's, you can see quite a variety of styles within the chateau - from gargantuan medieval walk through fireplaces and guard rooms, to highly painted 19th centry dining and bedrooms.

Chateau Gruyere Dining Room

 Inside the chateau walls, but outside the residence, are several courtyards, a chapel, and a substantial church and manse, accompanied by several grave yards. Interestingly, many of the headstones in the graveyards were quite recent. I've heard you only have a certain amount of time in some European cemeteries where space is at a premium before they move you out to make way for the more recently dead. Maybe that was true here?

Church Yard Beside Chateau

Courtyard in Chateau

The views from the chateau were spectacular, from the low surrounding mountains to the broad farming valley below. Very cool.

Evening Falls  in a Gruyere Alley

View from Chateau Gruyere

Church at Chateau Gruyere

 We spent all afternoon touring the Chateau and the surrounding town, looking out over the valley and surrounding mountains, exploring back streets, the other gates to the city, ending with a visit to the church and a walk through the dusky lanes as the street lights blossomed. We were starving.

Kim and Ann Share the Mandatory Fondue

And in Gruyere, how you could you visit and not have fondue? Is not Gruyere the premier fondue cheese? There were lots of fondue joints. We chose one that was bright and cheery, with warm wood walls, and plopped down for a meal of cheese and bread. The fondue was quite good as fondue goes (I am not a natural fan), and the bread was perfect. Ann ordered the pickled onions and baby cucumbers to dip, but I didn't care for that tradition. But good bread dipped in a wine-cheese sauce with a crisp glass of white wine hit the spot. Full and tired, we waddled across the street to our hotel, climbed the stairs to our room, and rolled into bed. Tomorrow, the countryside.