The first few miles out of Connellsville are rural-industrial and not particularly scenic, but from the long bridge at the intersection with the Sheepskin Trail at Bowest, the trail heads into the hills following the Youghiogheny (Yawka' gainy) River, the active CSX tracks across the gorge keeping company.
The hills rise steeply, with regular exposed cuts hung with rhododendrons. Mid summer, the views of the river are often limited, but fall while the leaves are dropping or spring before leaf out you can see great distances in the gorge. The river runs its rocky course below and the trail is not very busy. Drop down the steep access road at Brunner Run Take Out to see the end of the rapids where the white water junkies finish their runs. It was fall and low water when I went through so no action, but in the spring and early summer there should be some spectacular play boating from here on up to Ohiopyle.
Now in Ohiopyle State Park, and as you near the small resort village of Ohiopyle you will see more trail users - especially in summer. Rugged outcrops appear regularly, and occasional trailside waterfalls. Here there are several side trails open to mountain biking, but they're generally a bust. Jonathon Run Trail is a wide rocky single track track open to bikes that passes a nice waterfall, but ends at a paved road in less than a mile. Sugar Run Trail is like Jonathon but narrower and more fun, but goes barely a mile before suffering a similar fate leaving you with a mile of paved riding to get back to Jonathon.Having already ridden the rail trail earlier that day, I continued on the paved road to the heart of the park hoping to catch some of the popular sites - a very nice waterfall and natural water slide. But of course paved access and beauty made them busy, even for a fall weekday. Looking for more mountain biking, I dropped the rest of the way into Ohioplye.
Ohiopyle has been a vacation town for over 100 years. Only 75 miles from Pittsburgh, it was served by train and sported several large resorts. The highways eventually killed the original resorts and the town is only now coming back on the strengths of white water and biking. But I found that while the river is spectacular there, the town was over the top touristy, and the food mediocre. The busiest of the small Trail Towns by far and the least interesting for me.
Where the mountain biking here was a disappointment, the road riding wasn't bad. There are some brutally steep paved climbs here. I found myself on one climb to 2,400 feet wishing for more than the 22-26 combination on my mountain bike - it was starting to hurt. But the view at the top was spectacular - and nobody was there. Way better than the purported mountain bike trail leading out of town. You had to suspect it wasn't worthwhile seeing the shared equestrian and snowmobile designation. And it wasn't - didn't take me long to get back on the roads to the summit. One screaming 1,000 foot downhill back to the river and a short ride to Confluence on the trail and I was ready for another fine meal on shores of the Yough at the Lucky Dog Cafe. Another winner - this time the Copper River Salmon salad. 2 for 2 at the Lucky Dog.
At Confluence the trail follows the Casselman River through more lush gorge. The Pinkerton Tunnel site is pretty cool. There are two bridges spanning the river on each side of the tunnel, bypassing a long bend. The tunnel needs repair and is closed, but a temporary rail grade created to bypass it years ago after a disastrous tunnel fire provides a scenic bypass.
Further along Rockwood is a fun side trip across the river. Rockwood, along with Connellville, is one of the easiest access points from I-70/76. It has a hostel and an interesting restored mill building and opera house that now house a few small shops and eateries. Nothing fancy and the food is adequate, but a nice atmosphere and a good break from the trail. There's a fun bicycle mash-up sculpture at the trail head, and a great bike shop. The friendly proprietor gave me a zip-tie for an emergency shoe repair when my ratchet strap came un-stitched.
Heading on to Garrett brings more scenic river riding. The right of way is wider here and open to equestrians on the grass. They are very good about staying off the trail. A bit east of Garrett the trail leaves the gorge and heads over the hills, the plants change, the views open, and surprising structures seem around every bend.More photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jbp1111/ConnelsvilleToGarrett?authkey=Gv1sRgCK7Yhbi4kOyInwE#
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