3-Crossing the Appalachians on the Great Allegheny Passage: Garrett to Big Savage Mountain

Riding out of the gorge brings a touch of farm to the forest. The rhododendrons are gone but occasional fields of corn or pastured cows spring up between the woods where the hills aren't too steep and the soils are better. Its a different kind of beauty than the Casselman or Youghiogehny, but beautiful none the less. At these elevations above 2,000 feet too you start seeing sugar maples and aspen. No birches or balsam, but it started feeling a bit like home in Upper Michigan.

The Garrett wind farm is a substantial enterprise. I lost count of the turbines as they appeared and disappeared behind the ridges, but they are everywhere from Garrett to Meyersdale. Unlike cell or power towers, I find them oddly attractive - like some odd cross of bird and tree. Less beautiful, but certainly more dramatic up close is the Salisbury Viaduct. This 1,908 foot long 101 foot high bridge offers great views up and down the valley, and is a kick to ride across.

Meyersdale is another Trail Town benefiting from increased tourism. It has a wonderfully restored train station at the trail head, and an attractive downtown, but I had trouble finding any nicer restaurants open when I dropped down the road to visit. Maybe I missed something, but I decided to snack and wait for dinner in Cumberland.

East of Meyersdale near the Deal trail head I crossed the eastern continental divide. Nicely interpreted at the underpass, there are several paintings commemorating the history of the region, the construction of the railroad and trail, and an elevation profile showing trail climb from Pittsburgh to Washington. Looks like a fun downhill into Cumberland from Big Savage.

Riding between Allegheny and Big Savage mountains you almost feel as though you're on a high plateau. The sky hangs high above and the now more distant hills rim your views. I crossed occasional small streams, but no rivers or major structures intruded. It felt somehow more remote than any other part of the trail. As Big Savage Mountain approached, it hardly seemed much of a mountain - more a low ridge. The dark portal of Big Savage Tunnel appeared around the bend.

3,300 foot long, this tunnel was completely repaired and re-lined at cost of $12 million to make the Allegheny Passage trail possible. From its original construction it suffered from water, sand, and frost, requiring constant repair. Now with doors that are closed in the winter, new drainage, and lighting, it's state of the art again. Riding through, the exit ahead appears little larger than the dim lights overhead,  making the turn leaving the mountain far above the valley far below even more dramatic. Suddenly you know you really are in the mountains.

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