Switzerland: Murren

Our Guest House in Murren

Murren is a cute resort town perched on the slope atop the rim of a the gorge we'd traversed in the dark the night before. It in turn is at the bottom of  32 miles ski runs, a toboggan run to the next town, and home to the longest downhill ski race in the world - the Inferno. 1,900 racers descent 7,140 feet. 450 residents and 2,000 hotel beds. Boy am I glad we came in the off season!

Eiger Guest Lounge

Up early, we find a fine complimentary breakfast of the usual European fare at our home for the next two days - the Eiger Guest House. We seem to have the floor to ourselves. We have a balcony, four bunkbeds for the 3 of us, and a shared bathroom down the hall. And a cozy lounge and restaurant downstairs. We're on the streets before the sun clears the mountains to warm the town.

Morning View from our Balcony

Definitely the off season. As we walk around, there seem to be only 3 restaurants open in town, and what activity there is seems limited to the buzz of seasonal changeover. One cable car is strictly running supplies and equipment now, we share our cable car rides with construction workers, and utility vehicles are all we see in the streets. They are a diverse and charming lot, from tractor-like flatbeds to surplus military. We see a power wheel barrow pass and turn up the alley loaded with cabbages from a local garden.

Another Cool Utility Vehicle

The buildings are an interesting mix of well tended old Swiss mountain styles, new multi-tenant condos imitating the chalet, historic hotels, small commercial establishments, mostly closed now, selling outdoor wear, gear, souvenirs, and food. Several older unteneded small barn-like structures are framed by wooden posts outlining the new structure that will soon take their place. Murren seems to be trying hard to preserve its history, market that history,  prosper from it, update it, and not be overwhelmed by it. So far they've been pretty successful I'd say, but it's a tough balance to hold.

New Condos at Murren

Older Murren

I like that while it is obviously tourist focused, it seems to lack the chain franchises and ostentation of many of the resort towns I've seen in the American Rockies. And it's lack of other than service vehicles is wonderful for keeping it quiet and on a human scale. It's supremely walkable and invites exploration, which quickly leads you the footpaths. Footpaths extend across the face of the mountain. On the lower slopes where cows graze and humans reside, the paths are linked by narrow paved service roads, no wider than a bike path and reserved for hikers,  moving cattle, and the little tractor-like trucks the local farmers use. Higher up, the paths wind on alone up to and above the tree line.

Those paths were our destination for the day. But that's the next story.