Switzerland: Schilthorn

Murren Cable Station to Schilthorn

 At Murren, we caught the cable car to Birg with a transfer there to Schilthorn. Amazing, the prevalence of cable transportation here in the Alps. Just like any bus station, but your bus silently and instantly whisks you upward at insane angles, dangling above surreal terrain. We quickly lept above tree line into the realm of rock and snow.

Approaching Birg

Not only do the cables rise steeply, they increase their slope as you approach a higher station. Our final destination of Schilthorn was invisible to us as we swept towards the rocky redoubt of our transfer station, clinging to the  promontory Birg high above Murren.

These cable stations are massively built of concrete and heavy steel to withstand the winds and ice at the top of the Alps. Birg is mostly a way point to Schilthorn, though there are paths leading here, and we had toyed with hiking to Birg then riding the car down. We were accompanied my several workmen and their gear here, and Birg station was obviously undergoing an extensive remodel, but we instead quickly transferred and were whisked again ever higher with that omnipresent Swiss efficiency.

View from Schilthorn Across the Alps

The cable  from Birg to Schilthorn seemed less longer and less steep than the one to Birg from Murren, but as we approached the final peak, the Schilthorn was the more dramatic with its stainless steel revolving restaurant, Piz Gloria, and extensive observation platform. We made first for the observation deck and were treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding Bernese Alps in all directions. At 2,970 m (9,700 feet) we stood shoulder to shoulder with the Jungfrau, the Eiger, and the Monch. Kim told us the story of how the Monch's (monk) job was to keep separate the Eiger and the Jungfrau (young woman).

Schilthorn Observation Deck

 We were surprised to see a flock of black birds sweeping around the peak, landing on the rails, and generally hanging out in an inhospitable place. Ah, but then the children with food arrived, and understood why the birds had bothered to fly to 9,000 feet - free lunch.

Kim Enjoying Her Treat at 2,970 m

The Schilthorn station is famous for being the site of much filming in the James Bond film "In Her Majesty's Secret Service".  Apparently the producers paid to have the restaurant construction completed in exchange for rights to film their movie. The restaurant became the villain's lair. We went upstairs past the gift shop to see the restaurant and take in some tea and ice cream.

 Although the outer floor revolves completely only once every hour, I soon had to move to the non-rotating center and walk slowly along with Ann and Kim as their table rotated by. It was very odd for me. I could not directly sense motion, but had a distinct sense of unease or imbalance when I sat with them. And thought not motion sick, I lost what little appetite I had had before. But it was a fun space, with good company, incredible views and sunny, warm seating. Hard to believe this was once a dastardly villain's pad.

The Descent to Murren

Suitably fortified, we headed back to the cable cars and began our descent to Murren as the shadows began sweeping down the mountain face below us. Coming in to Murren from above, it looked tiny perched at the edge of its cliff above the gorge below. We felt almost like the parasailers we had seen that morning, running off the edge of the cliff, climbing on the winds rising from the valley below, twisting into dropping spirals and falling from view below the cliff's edge. Frightening and inspiring at once. What an amazing place of diverse and exceptional scenery.