Skiing Laurel Ridge

 Well, we finally got out skiing in Pennsylvania. We've been waiting and watching the Pennsylvania Cross Country Skiers' Association web page, keeping an eye on the snow and grooming reports there. While there is a groomed cross country trail about 1.5 hours away, it's associated the downhill resort at Blue Knob, the second highest peak in Pennsylvania at 3,170 feet, and they both don't get the same snow at 2,100 feet (where the nordic trails are) that Laurel Ridge does and they don't seem to try too hard to get out and groom - cross country is a sideline for them. And they only have snow cats, so it takes more snow before they can groom. We'll try them later in the winter.

Laurel Ridge State Park is at the top of a ridge on the high Allegheny Plateau about 1.5 hours south west of Pittsburgh, with a concession there exclusively for cross country skiing. Since it's all they do, they endeavor to do it well. Run by PACCSA and the folks who run Riversport Paddling and the Lucky Dog Cafe we so enjoyed on our visit to Ohiopyle and the Allegheny Passage bike trail nearby, they have a heated shed, full rental gear, and a limited Lucky Dog menu.

A 2.5 hour drive for us, we pulled in on a Sunday around noon and were treated to a parking lot stuffed with cars - 40 or more. This turns out to be the nordic destination for the Pittsburgh nordic set (1.5 hours for them), as well as the home of the Pennsylvania Cross Country Championships in February. There's a very nice intermediate 5 km skate and stride loop, a 1.5 km beginner loop, a 10 km skate and stride lollipop loop, and an  5 km advanced striding only loop that drops off the side of the ridge.


Grooming was good but not great - early season with a bit of dirt showing in the tracks in a few spots.  State of the art Tidd Tech G2 and a slightly older but fully capable Yamaha 2-stroke VK work sled. The groomer also runs the concession with his family, so they're awfully busy, but took the time at the end of the day after rentals had tapered off to touch up the skate lane after a day of heavy of use. Thanks!

Temps were around 20, and lots of folks seemed to stick to the closer 5 km loops, come in to warm up, then head out again, so the shed was packed and warm. Lots of folks skiing in snowmobile suits, parkas, all bundled up. I felt under dressed. I saw very little skating, but there were a few. Lots and lots of recreational and occasional skiers having a great time in the fresh snow. Families teaching the children, kids pulled in sleds. A nice scene.

The beginner loop wasn't much, but the 5 km intermediate loop had nice flow, some short steep hills with turns, and some nice views. Definitely the best loop there. Ann and I did the 10 km lollipop loop together, and it was nice enough. Started with an exciting downhill from the shed, then settled in to a flat to gently rolling beginner trail. Spent a bit more time along the power line on the way out than I liked, but the return leg was more scenic and wandering. One road crossing - no big deal.

Then I hooked up with the advanced striding trail. Was that a thrill - 400 feet of elevation drop groomed 5 feet wide. A good fast pitch - snow plowing wasn't having the effect I had hoped so I ended up working on staying on the trail more than controlling my speed. A wild ride to the bottom. Luckily, the few bare patches were not on the downhills and did not cross the entire trail. Then 400 feet back to the top on a very nice grade that was just shy herringbone territory that day. Then down 400 feet again for another wild ride along a ravine, then 400 feet back up to the trailhead, with only some herringbone at the final pitch. A little more snow to cover a few spots, and some foreknowledge on my part, and you could really rip those hills. Nice.

A tasty bowl of Southwestern Chili for lunch along with an overly sweet squash and apple soup, and a nice conversation with a couple from Pittsburgh. From their experience, Laural Ridge is the main venue for Pittsburghers, but the best cross country skiing in the region seems universally agreed to be White Grass Touring in Davis West Virginia. Built on an abandoned downhill center, with the Canaan Valley at 3,300 feet and skiing up to 4,300 feet, lots more snow and the cold to hold it. They also have a small Pisten Bulley to take care of the icy days. About 3.5 hours from State College, we already have reservations to meet Jeff's family there in February and give it a try.

Christmas in State College

Christmas in State College in our apartment was a subdued affair. We were going to be away visiting family for most of the holidays, and so selected lighted garland for around our window wall and garland wreaths in the other rooms. The smell of pine and cedar without the floor space crunch of a tree. Nice.

Christmas at a Jimmy V's place (a co-worker of Ann's) was decidedly un-subdued. A lighted motorized airplane flown by Snoopy, penguins on a glacier, endless lights, music. Probably the most impressive display of lights I've ever seen at a private residence. Thanks, Jimmy.

Downtown State College got into the act with lights on the trees of the main cross street, Allen, with a huge Christmas tree at the end. The view was especially nice from the Allen Street Grill. On the second floor projecting over the sidewalk it serves interesting, though not spectacular, entrées with an excellent view of the action downtown. We were treated to a live street concert while we ate above Allen before Christmas.

However, New Years Eve day is the biggest holiday event here. First Night is a spectacular downtown celebration of winter with ice sculptures, an ice slide, carriage rides, live music, street food - the works. The students are away for break, so the adults and families take back the streets. It was great to see everyone out. The concerts are held in numerous historic downtown churches, the nearby school, and downtown theaters. Eight bucks buys you a button that gets you into as many concerts as you can schedule.

We were able to see a brass quartet, a flute-harp-clarinet classical trio (odd), a snippet of the Rockfest high school battle of the bands (Ellen Siberian-Tiger was quite good), and an excellent blue grass band (best show) all in one evening. Ann stopped by the resolution barrels where folks wrote resolutions on tongue depressors and threw them into burning barrels for the new year. A great time. I'd always try to be home for New Years if I lived here.

See Ellen Siberian-Tiger at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwG0xtYX4Ys&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Pittsburgh

The Priory Inn

 After a enjoyable Christmas tour of family in Ann Arbor and Oberlin, we took Ben for a short vacation in Pittsburgh. We've always liked Pittsburgh, but I hadn't been back in 20 years and it's consistently ranked as one of the more interesting and livable cities in the US. Ann came up with a most excellent  place to stay on the north shore across the Allegheny River from downtown - a former Benedictine Priory and Catholic church now a beautiful (and not expensive) inn called The Priory. We settled into our lovely suite - 10 foot ceilings, large bay windowed living room overlooking the courtyard, spacious corner bedroom - after a slight delay. They were in the throws of finishing an expansion before the new year into a new wing next door (very nice too) and didn't have our new RFID lockset installed at check-in. They were great, giving us a substantial discount for the delay and a bottle of wine. Gracious under pressure is a good way for an inn proprietor to be.

Dinner at Legends

Ann continued her winning ways by finding us a cute neighborhood Italian restaurant to go with our wine. A bring your own alcohol establishment with homey atmosphere and simple, well prepared meals. Well worth a visit if you're on the north shore. Legends - right across the street from the hospital.

North Shore Neighborhood

The neighborhood around the Priory is an interesting, vibrant, transitional place. There are many 2 and 3 story brick row houses. Some have been beautifully restored and updated, others down the block are waiting for some love, and a few are boarded up and waiting for an imaginative owner. The area around the Priory was once German and is known as Deutsch Town, but there is a lot of diversity now.  Ohio street, the main commercial street in the area has an eclectic mix of local restaurants that reflect the economic and racial mix like Bistro Soul  (nice, with great carry out if you want to eat back at the Priory) Max's Tavern (German), an Asian restaurant, check cashing joints, a hardware store, hair stylists, and pawn shops. Definitely in the process of remaking itself and not quiet done yet.

Beech Avenue

National Aviary

The North Shore was once Allegheny City until it was annexed by Pittsburgh in 1907. In the center of the old city (just west of Deutsch Town) is Allegheny Commons which contains extensive park land, an original Carnegie Library (he lived in Allegheny City), a children's museum in the beautiful old post office, the original Carnegie Hall next to his library, and the National Aviary, along with some newer office towers and housing. We enjoyed several forays into the parks, a visit to the Aviary, which I hadn't seen in 30 years,  and lots of exploring the surrounding neighborhoods.

West of the parks was once the wealthier part of town, and there are still some superb mansions still on the hill above the river. Many were removed to build the community college there, but some were also preserved as classrooms and dorms. Cool! We also found a street of massive row houses, all well preserved. Apparently it's been used in the movies as a stand-in for Victorian England.
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PPG plaza

 We also popped across the Andy Warhol bridge, (near the Warhol museum - another home boy) to downtown Pittsburgh to explore.This was the dramatic, if not particularly inviting, scene of a skating rink at PPG center. As the cold December wind blew it reminded me of giant ice crystals heaving from the pavement. We quickly made our way to a corner shop for some Italian wedding soup to warm our souls. Point Park where the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers form the mighty Ohio were pretty closed up for the winter- we we moved on.

Strip District

We headed back up-river past the massive convention center near where we started and along Penn Avenue to the Strip District. This was a fascinating stretch of wholesale and retail. We stopped in at a Polish shop and got Polish honey, visite a vast Italian sausage and cheese establishment, a Penzy's Spice, and others I forget. Street vendors were everywhere. There was also the Society of Contemporary Craft and the large Heinz history center showing Treasures of the Vatican. We just didn't have time to visit everything nearby. And there was tons more further into the city. Next trip.

Point Park View of Science Museum and Steelers Stadium

On the bridge back to the North Shore we were treated to great views of other North Shore attractions were were going to miss -  Steelers stadium, the science museum, and Pirates stadium. Pittsburgh is a great cultural city, and it would take weeks to see just the high points. For sports fans there'd be even more to see, like the big outdoor NHL hockey game at the football stadium scheduled for Saturday. We also really enjoyed the city setting amidst the steep hills and along the massive rivers (they look almost like lakes). Back on the North Shore with tired feet, we ordered Bistro Soul to go and ate in our room.

Sculpture in Mattress Factory Courtyard

Mattress Factory Annex

Our last day we met up with a co-worker of Ann's and headed to the Mattress Factory, a contemporary art museum on the North Shore - we assume situated in an old mattress factory. As we approached the museum the row houses started getting funky - like the Annex with inflatable headgear. Appropriate as the museum was a always fascinating, and sometimes disturbing, mix of traditional media, installation art, and architecture. The current exhibition was focused on Cuban artists offering commentary on gender, race, and economic oppression (hence the car of the rich born on the feet of the poor), but there were many permanent exhibits as well. They had an excellent garden built into the footings of an old adjacent factory making excellent use of the old foundations, drains, and sluices. If you like art that experiments brilliantly, and sometimes fails, this is an exciting place to visit. If sometimes graphic and disturbing art offend you, this is not your place.

Mattress Factory Art Museum

We also had time while in town to spend with the West family. Living - we had a great visit with Ann's 3 cousins one evening.  And dead - the Wests have extensive history in Pittsburgh. Ann's great grandfather owned a glass factory nearby, and there are other family links to long ago industry and wealth. We went to Allegheny Cemetery and visited the graves of many ancestors on both sides of her father's family. Ann had fun explaining the family tree to Ben in front of the David Gillespie mausoleum where her grandmother's wealthy old-maid cousin Mable Gillespie is interred. Mable was a great friend and generous benefactor to Ann's parents in tight times.

So, the verdict on Pittsburgh? One of my favorite big cities. Not the best at any one thing, but so good at so much. For me the best in the mid-west behind Chicago. Another trip is definitely in order before we leave Pennsylvania.