Well, we finally got out skiing in Pennsylvania. We've been waiting and watching the Pennsylvania Cross Country Skiers' Association web page, keeping an eye on the snow and grooming reports there. While there is a groomed cross country trail about 1.5 hours away, it's associated the downhill resort at Blue Knob, the second highest peak in Pennsylvania at 3,170 feet, and they both don't get the same snow at 2,100 feet (where the nordic trails are) that Laurel Ridge does and they don't seem to try too hard to get out and groom - cross country is a sideline for them. And they only have snow cats, so it takes more snow before they can groom. We'll try them later in the winter.
Laurel Ridge State Park is at the top of a ridge on the high Allegheny Plateau about 1.5 hours south west of Pittsburgh, with a concession there exclusively for cross country skiing. Since it's all they do, they endeavor to do it well. Run by PACCSA and the folks who run Riversport Paddling and the Lucky Dog Cafe we so enjoyed on our visit to Ohiopyle and the Allegheny Passage bike trail nearby, they have a heated shed, full rental gear, and a limited Lucky Dog menu.
A 2.5 hour drive for us, we pulled in on a Sunday around noon and were treated to a parking lot stuffed with cars - 40 or more. This turns out to be the nordic destination for the Pittsburgh nordic set (1.5 hours for them), as well as the home of the Pennsylvania Cross Country Championships in February. There's a very nice intermediate 5 km skate and stride loop, a 1.5 km beginner loop, a 10 km skate and stride lollipop loop, and an 5 km advanced striding only loop that drops off the side of the ridge.
Grooming was good but not great - early season with a bit of dirt showing in the tracks in a few spots. State of the art Tidd Tech G2 and a slightly older but fully capable Yamaha 2-stroke VK work sled. The groomer also runs the concession with his family, so they're awfully busy, but took the time at the end of the day after rentals had tapered off to touch up the skate lane after a day of heavy of use. Thanks!
Temps were around 20, and lots of folks seemed to stick to the closer 5 km loops, come in to warm up, then head out again, so the shed was packed and warm. Lots of folks skiing in snowmobile suits, parkas, all bundled up. I felt under dressed. I saw very little skating, but there were a few. Lots and lots of recreational and occasional skiers having a great time in the fresh snow. Families teaching the children, kids pulled in sleds. A nice scene.
The beginner loop wasn't much, but the 5 km intermediate loop had nice flow, some short steep hills with turns, and some nice views. Definitely the best loop there. Ann and I did the 10 km lollipop loop together, and it was nice enough. Started with an exciting downhill from the shed, then settled in to a flat to gently rolling beginner trail. Spent a bit more time along the power line on the way out than I liked, but the return leg was more scenic and wandering. One road crossing - no big deal.
Then I hooked up with the advanced striding trail. Was that a thrill - 400 feet of elevation drop groomed 5 feet wide. A good fast pitch - snow plowing wasn't having the effect I had hoped so I ended up working on staying on the trail more than controlling my speed. A wild ride to the bottom. Luckily, the few bare patches were not on the downhills and did not cross the entire trail. Then 400 feet back to the top on a very nice grade that was just shy herringbone territory that day. Then down 400 feet again for another wild ride along a ravine, then 400 feet back up to the trailhead, with only some herringbone at the final pitch. A little more snow to cover a few spots, and some foreknowledge on my part, and you could really rip those hills. Nice.
A tasty bowl of Southwestern Chili for lunch along with an overly sweet squash and apple soup, and a nice conversation with a couple from Pittsburgh. From their experience, Laural Ridge is the main venue for Pittsburghers, but the best cross country skiing in the region seems universally agreed to be White Grass Touring in Davis West Virginia. Built on an abandoned downhill center, with the Canaan Valley at 3,300 feet and skiing up to 4,300 feet, lots more snow and the cold to hold it. They also have a small Pisten Bulley to take care of the icy days. About 3.5 hours from State College, we already have reservations to meet Jeff's family there in February and give it a try.
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