Skiing White Grass Touring in West Virginia

Our family had been planning this trip to ski White Grass Touring in the beautiful Cannan Valley of northern West Virginia since we knew we'd be in the East this winter. President's day seemed a safe bet for good snow, and the kids would have Monday off. Unfortunately, the beautiful powder of the week before succumbed to a week of 50 degree weather and rain. We drove south with trepidation.

White Grass is the biggest, best groomed nordic center south of New York - 50 km of groomed trails, snow cat tilling, and 172 inches of snow so far this year. Situated on the slopes of an abandoned downhill venue, they sport some serious elevation, starting at 3,300 feet and rising to 4,300 feet. The old runs are kept clear and parts of the woods are gladed for telemark skiers. An extensive network of service roads and fields provides a route up and down for those inclined to stay on the grooming.

Our fears were realized when we arrived and saw the extensive bare ground at the chalet and throughout the valley. But with the strategic placement of 2 foot tall snow fences, there were a surprising number of narrow, groomed bands of snow through the fields. This day it was partly sunny and near freezing, so what skiing there was might be ok. We each paid our 15 bucks, had a quick training session on the bunny slope for Jennifer and Eric (my sibs), and headed out.

Conditions were highly variable to put it charitably. Tilled granular of the field regularly turned to pure ice where water ran down the hill and across the trail. In the woods, the base thinned and disappeared again and again. We ended up hiking about 1/3 the time, skiing on ice 1/3 the time, and enjoying tilled granular 1/3 the time. If it had been Houghton, we'd have closed the trails. But they doggedly drove their Pisten Bully hundreds of yards across bare dirt to get to groomable snow, often higher up.

Trail difficulty here even in good conditions would be pretty high. With the narrowness and steep hillsides, their trail ratings run a level below what we have at Michigan Tech. Their beginner trails are like our intermediates. Their advanced are as steep as ours, but 10 feet wide instead of 20, and with curves and switchbacks. Think Railroad Ravine and Anaerobic Gulch at Maasto Hiihto in Hancock, but longer. Wahooo! No snow on them this trip, so I only got to walk them.

Amazingly, even with the poor conditions there were over 100 cars in the parking lot. One wonders how many they attract with good conditions. I guess when there's nowhere better, White Grass is where you go. And no one seemed surprised or upset. So I suspect we're spoiled, skiing the Lake Superior snow belt back home, with its reliable snow and colder temperatures. The chalet was rustic-cute, with antique wood stove, low ceilings, cafe, and rental shop. Families were everywhere - they even rented pulks to tow the kiddies.

Near the trailhead, there was a lot of crowding as there were only two 8 foot wide (two way) bands of snow leading to and from higher elevations. Coming down it became an issue - carrying speed, beginners and kids scattered about, dirty patches to dodge. And everyone having a great time. Folks were just great - friendly, helpful, happy to be out skiing.

In the end for us, the weather was pleasant and it was great to be outdoors together with my brother and sister - something we rarely get to do. So it was fun. Despite, not because, of the skiing.