Philadelphia Again: Society Hill/Old City

Ann Explores Elfreth's Alley

We were back in Philadelphia again for the second time this year after a 45 year hiatus. We had just a day or two last time through, enough to explore downtown near city hall and venture down Franklin Parkway to the art museum. This time Ann was here for a conference, so I had almost a week to explore further afield.

One of my favorite finds was the Society Hill and Old City areas near the waterfront, past the National Historic Park and Independence Hall. And thus not so overrun with tourists.

Elfreth's Alley in Old City is one of the oldest remaining residential streets in the country, with homes dating form 1728 to 1836. I felt like I was in Cambridge, England again walking this narrow block. Very cool.

Philly Delaware River Waterfront

Society Hill Neighborhood

Located only a few blocks from the Delaware River waterfront, it was almost lost to urban blight and renewal 60 years ago. It survived the threat, along with much of Old City and Society Hill, and both areas have been beautifully restored. Unfortunately, I-95 sits between the historic neighborhoods and the waterfront, and in some areas completely blocks access. But I did find my way over the bridge and down to the harbor where there were several restored tall ships (one now a floating restaurant), a submarine, a shipping museum, and a waterfront park. Not the best waterfront development I've seen in a major city, but still nice.

Society Hill and Old City are home to some very cute row houses, tree-lined streets, and an amazing variety of churches. There's a wonderful walking tour of the area, with insightful interpretive signs and maps at many corners guiding you through the most religiously pluralistic of the Colonies. So many fleeing religious persecution came to William Penn's colony. For many years in the 18th century, it was the only place in the British Colonies where a Roman Catholic congregation could legally meet. A very early synagogue, (now marked only by its cemetery, though two have since returned to the neighborhood), a Friends meeting house, Congregationalist, Presbyterian, the list goes on.

Mother Bethel

I was surprised and pleased to come upon Mother Bethel, the original African Methodist Episcopalian (A.M.E.) congregation, formed when the first black ordained Methodist minister left the Methodist church over a disagreement on discrimination and segregated seating. Mother Bethel is situated on the oldest piece of land continuously owned by African Americans in the U.S.

A wonderful and historic walk. Society Hill seemed mostly residential, with quaint narrow alleys and lovingly restored homes. Old City especially had plenty of funky storefronts, interesting food, mixed with small businesses and row houses - all a little edgier and a bit less refined. Great compliments to each other and the Historic Park to the west.