Montana in March: Lone Mountain Ranch

We've always wanted to visit Montana in the winter, but it seems we're always passing through in summer.  This year we finally made it. Late winter, but winter none the less. It was a bit close having chosen this year of all years. We were in the midst of a massive meltdown, with highs here in Houghton in the 60's and 70's throughout the second week of March. As we made our way across northern plains it hit 80. Unheard of. But Big Sky had a good snow year (unlike much of the Rockies) and temps were only slightly above normal, so there was plenty of wet, transformed base.


Our destination was chosen long ago: Lone Mountain Ranch. It had been our primary goal for any winter trip to Montana since we first heard of it. Consistently ranked one of the top cross country ski resorts in the country, it's situated in the Rockies of southern Montana across the valley from the massive Big Sky downhill resort and Lone Mountain, not far from Bozeman and Yellowstone National Park.

Our check in had to be by 5:00 pm mountain time on Friday and Ann couldn't get off work until 2:00 pm eastern on Thursday, so we had an epic 22 hour drive ahead of us. We finally stopped in Bismark, North Dakota at 1:30 am, checked in, grabbed 5 hours of sleep, checked out with the same clerk we'd checked in with earlier in his shift, and hit the road again. The oil and gas boom in North Dakota was obvious at breakfast with all the young, male construction workers scarfing donuts and coffee with their bags and coolers next to them, ready to roll.

All the lodging and Lone Mountain is log cabin based, so we signed up for a private cabin as part of the sleigh and ski package. We arrived around 4:30, settled in a bit, and I had time for a quick ski before our sleigh ride to dinner at 6:30.

Temps were in the upper 30's and there was a light drizzle. The trails had been groomed the previous night, but were soft and granular. It was classic western skiing. You go up, up, up for an hour, then come down in 20 minutes. The scenery was beautiful. As I climbed from 6,200 feet the drizzle turned to pellet snow, then to light snow. The sun even broke out a few times. I love the variety of conifers in the Rockies. And the broad valley of Big Sky offered unmatched views.

After arriving we and the other guests were treated to a horse drawn sleigh ride up the mountain where we we had dinner in a log cabin heated by, and our dinner cooked over, a large wood stove rescued from an old railroad lodge. Light was provided by kerosene lamps. Entertainment was provided by the humor of the chef and music by the talented western folk singer who also drove our sleigh. It was interesting, but not my cup of tea really. I'm not one to like dinner with a crowded table of strangers, country folk music, or prime rib and potatoes. But I did like the rustic setting and off-grid feel.

Lone Mountain Ranch is a former dude ranch, and it continues that  tradition in the style of its accommodations, its food, and its summer horseback riding programs. For folks seeking that aesthetic, it's perfect. For me though, I prefer the Alpine style and elegance of their eastern competition: Trapp Family Lodge. Still, we had a good time and the setting is wonderful.

The next morning, Ann and I got out our classic skis and toured Walking Jim's Way. This was a gentler rolling cruise through the woods along a steeper side valley. More of the many conifers set against the mountain across the valley, along with some fresh, wet snow made for beautiful scenery and slow skiing.

In the afternoon, the ranch offered free shuttles to 7,000 feet and fresh snow since it they had not been able to groom the night before due to warm temperatures. Ann decided to stay behind, relax, and take advantage of resort amenities, while I got out the skate skis and jumped in the shuttle van. My goal, to ski to the high point of the trails  at 8,400 feet, then descend via the advanced trails back to the cabin. It was quite a workout. With an inch of fresh, super sticky snow and the elevation, I was glad to stop and take a few pictures. The slow snow had the additional effect of taming the advanced descents. Not all  bad - on an icy day they would have been very challenging - but I found myself having to skate down even moderate hills.

In all, a fun stay. Not one I feel compelled to revisit, but unique and memorable. Skis, snow, the Rockies - what more could one ask?