The Great Allegheny Passage Trail

After Gettysburg, instead of heading home we decided that a spur of the moment side trip to check out the Great Allegheny Passage bike trail was in order. What better to do on a three day weekend with your sweetie?

We'd read about this great rail to trail, and had been itching to see it. Stretching 135 miles from Pittsburgh to Cumberland through the Laurel Highlands, one of the most beautiful parts of Pennsylvania, it just begged to be tried. It even connects to the C&O towpath trail in Cumberland, Maryland, forming a 320 mile non-motorized trail from Pittsburgh to Washington DC.

We headed for Ohiopyle state park in the heart of the highlands, but not before stopping at this classic eatery along US-30 for lunch. Recently under new owners who obviously had a sense of humor, they played up the kitsch of the joint with a palm tree planter sporting a luau skirt, humorous signs, and loving preservation of all that was wrong with the architecture of this era. Even the food was classic - terrible.

Driving through the southern Pennsylvania highlands is beautiful - low mountains hang in the distance separated by rolling agricultural plateaus, the road dropping occasionally into scenic river valleys. We were making our way to the town of Confluence (oddly enough marked Confidence on our map) at the downstream exit of Ohiopyle park on the Youghiogheny River where we knew there was trail access. But we were unprepared for what a nice town we found. It was an outdoors recreationist's paradise. Bed and breakfasts set along the river sported rows of bike racks for the convenience of their bicycle touring patrons. Road biking in the area would be great too. White water outfitters offered kayaks, tours, training, and camping out back. All very casual, with maybe even a slight counter cultural vibe - relaxed, inviting, and slightly funky. We parked behind Riversport, got out the bikes and jumped on the trail.

We only rode 12 miles this time, but what we saw was impressive. The trail surface was immaculate compacted stone dust - almost like riding pavement. Multiple bridges across the river were modern and scenic. And the trail follows the river closely, offering regular glimpses of the riparian corridor. During fall color and in spring when the leaves are down and the under story blooming it must be incredible. A perfect place for casual bikers or long distance tourers, and we saw both - through riders with full paniers and families out for the evening. Towns every so often to stop at if you want to explore. Camping at the state park. We'll definitely have to come back for an overnight tour from inn to inn. That would be so easy here.

Dusk was approaching, so we headed back to the car, then plopped down on the deck of the Lucky Dog Cafe to watch the sun set over the river. A great place to stop in for simple food done well - my grass fed organic burger was superb, as were the homemade chips and potato salad. And you can even meet the lucky dogs, who stop by the table to say hi but are polite enough not to put their muzzles in your plate. This is a trip worth repeating.