Pine Creek Rail Trail

The 62 mile Pine Creek Rail Trail running through "the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania," was billed as one of the "10 great places to take a bike tour" by USA Today in 2001. Only an hour away from State College, it seemed like a great opportunity for our first overnight bike tour. We made a reservation at an inn near the halfway point, threw the panniers and bikes in the car, and made for the trailhead in Jersey Shore.

After a few delightful delays roving town looking for the trailhead, we found ourselves a few miles away on the banks of Pine Creek amidst corn fields and forests at the Whitetail trailhead. Already half a dozen cars were in the lot, all with bike racks.

The trail surface was immaculate packed stone dust smoother than most paved roads. There were cool staggered gates allowing bikes to pass but blocking motor vehicles at every road and driveway. Both the old concrete rail mile markers and new trail mile markers marked the way. Three beautifully preserved truss bridges crossed the river in the first few miles, offering great views up the valley. There were even stone comfort stations every hour or so.

On a beautiful Saturday morning, the trail was not crowded, but we did meet bikers regularly. A wide variety of folks: older couples, families with kids, men's and women's groups, even dogs in trailers and infant chest pouches. Mostly on comfort bikes, some on mountain bikes, a few road bikes. The grade was imperceptible. Attractive split rail fences separated roads and drop offs from the trail. And of course the valley was beautiful.

As we headed north, the valley became more and more gorge like. But it was never as wild as I was expecting. A county road also paralleled this segment of the stream, so there were occasional camps on the banks, and some road views. Near trailheads there were also occasional walkers, but trail width was more than enough to accommodate all.

After about 30 miles we arrived at our inn, dropped our bags, relaxed, and had a simple lunch on the deck by the river. Traditionally a fly fishing resort, it had burned and been rebuilt recently, and now catered more to bikers the sportsman. Then we rode the 7 miles to the historic Cedar Run Inn where we had dinner reservations. Ann was ready for a break, so she borrowed a book from the inn and sat on the porch reading and people watching. I went for a fast ride to see how much further up the gorge I could get before dinner. Here it was definitely a gorge, with steep hills crowding the valley on all sides. A hint of fall color was tinting the upper slopes.

A few miles from Cedar Run the road takes a different fork than the trail, and suddenly it was exactly as I had imagined it - just the river, the 1,000 foot hills, and a ribbon of trail. I rode to my halfway point, then regretfully turned around. Only my out and back times gave evidence of a grade.

Dinner was a much fancier affair at the Cedar Run Inn. We got the full inn treatment, with lavish descriptions of the menu, collectibles all around, and Victoriana the theme. Superb biscuits and butter, the rest was very good but no more.  But we missed ice cream at the cute general store across the street by  an hour. Full and happy, we pedaled back to our room in the dusk with no lights. A delightful end to a delightful day.

The ride back to the car seemed short, but the scenery just as nice. Top 10 in the world? I think not. But a great place to tour comfortably off road, spend the night in a quaint inn, and take in a scenic river valley. We'll have to make a longer tour of the Great Allegheny Passage Trail for a fair comparison, so stay tuned.