DC: Georgetown and the C&O Canal Path to Great Falls of the Potomac

Washington has several major bike paths, and many, many minor ones. I chose one each day to explore while Ann was at her conference. All are either paved with asphalt or packed stone dust.  The C&O canal was an early venture begun in 1828 to move goods from the newly opened Appalachians to Washington and the rest of the east.  It follows the Potomac river through a series of locks to Cumberland, Maryland over 184 miles. It boomed into the 1850's then began a long decline due to competition from the railroads and regular flooding. It became a national park through the efforts of Chief Justice William Douglas in 1954, and its towpath is now a popular bike route.

Better yet, from Cumberland you can continue biking along the Great Allegheny Passage rail trail path to Pittsburgh, another 135 miles west. I was sticking to a 20 mile ride from the Georgetown waterfront in DC (mile 0) to the great falls of the Potomac, where the river tumbles down a series of large rapids into a gorge before becoming the broad, flat river you see in Washington. I'd ridden the last 7 miles of the C&O towpath in Cumberland last fall as part of my Great Allegheny Passage adventure, and was curious to explore the lower end.

Here the locks and lock keeper's houses were in very good repair, and traditional boats offered rides along the canal during the summer season. It was fun to see the canal transiting the industrial section of the Georgetown waterfront and passing the beautiful downtown historic district. Georgetown, along with Alexandria, were my favorite regional historic cities, both sporting cobbled, narrow streets, restored row houses, and interesting shops and eateries.

Ironically, there was significant flooding along the Potomac during our visit, highlighting the troubles of the canal builders and operators attempting to harness such a variable river faced. The water was high into the trees and almost across the towpath in places, and there was debris above my head from higher water yet when I stood on the rocks along the falls.

Like any rail trail or canal path, the ride was nearly flat, the climb almost imperceptible. Over the first few miles it parallels the Crescent rail trail - first above then below with a park at the crossover point.

As the C&O proceeds upstream, the hills above the Potomac climb steadily until you realize you're in a gorge filled with the swollen river. At this point a number of parks line the east bank of the river and the number of trail users increases. When you start to see dramatic rock outcrops and a series of locks climbing to a turning basin, you know you're almost there. That, the roar of the cataracts, and the signs warning against swimming with 7 drownings in the last 16 months if you speak English (8 if you speak Spanish, apparently). The pedestrian bridge to the island in the center of the falls was unfortunately closed, but it was thrilling sitting by that volume of water coursing through the bedrock. In the distance I could see kayakers playing in the haystacks, and jet boats high-pointing in the terrific flow, spinning out, and regrouping lower in the river.

A great ride. I'm repeatedly impressed with the quantity and quality of parkland in DC, the beautiful scenery, and the ease of access.